THE NEW REGIME
I was recently contacted by Irina Dzhus, the designer behind Ukrainian conceptual womenswear brand DZHUS, whom Queen Marie has featured on here before.
She wanted to tell me about her new Autumn / Winter 2015 collection, TOTALITARIUM, which she explained to me derives from "the technocratic cult propagandised by the totalitarian regimes of the 20th century’s first half".
Queen Marie appreciated the almost monastical austerity of the last collection and this collection carries on in a similar vein, with the austere silhouettes, technical cuts, subtle textures and a greyscale palette.
This season Irene has skilfully reimagined architectural elements of Constructivism and Totalitaristic Classicism.
The garments themselves are all constructed using work uniform cottons as well as fabrics such as woollen knit and felt. Special finishing, such as raw hems and exposed seam allowances, some piped with elastic, accentuates the technological nature of the designs.
I must also say how much I adore the lookbook itself. The photography, in particular the choice of locations, is breathtaking and really works to enhance the concept of the collection.